Caribbean island hopping

Discover the key Caribbean island hopping routes, with useful schedule, route and fare information and links to book.

Caribbean island hopping: St Lucia's white sand Sugar Beach
Sugar Beach, St Lucia

Caribbean island hopping always seemed like a romantic notion to me, I wanted to find out if it was as good as I expected. Having island hopped by ferry from St Lucia to Dominica to Guadeloupe, “romantic” may not be the best word to describe it, but it was certainly an experience I’d recommend.

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Let’s start with some pros and cons:

Pros:

  • More environmentally responsible than flying
  • Generous baggage limits
  • Often cheaper than flying
  • Plenty of space on board
  • On-board restaurant and bar
  • Get to enjoy sea-level views of islands
  • Can appreciate the distance between islands

Cons:

  • Seasickness (taking tablets is recommended!)
  • Hot and crowded waiting areas (particularly in Roseau, Dominica)
  • Slower than flying

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International island hopping

Caribbean island hopping: the long curved beach of Guadeloupe's Petite Anse
Petite Anse, Guadeloupe
Caribbean islands map showing international ferry routes

Lucayan Archipelago

USA > Bahamas

Greater Antilles

Dominican Republic > Puerto Rico

Windward and Leeward Islands

St Kitts > Saba > Statia > St Maarten

St Lucia > Martinique > Dominica > Guadeloupe

St Maarten > St Barts

Virgin Gorda > St Thomas

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Domestic island hopping

Caribbean island hopping: peaceful viewpoint from Gibbes Beach, Barbados
Gibbes Beach, Barbados

Grenadines

Grenada > Cariracou > Petite Martinique

  • Run by Osprey Lines, fares from $8
  • Runs twice daily Mon, Wed Thu between Grenada and Carriacou, and Mon-Fri Carriacou to Petite Martinique
  • Duration from Grenada (hotels >) to Carriacou (hotels >): 2h
  • Duration from Carriacou (hotels >) to Petite Martinique (hotels >): 30m

Lucayan Archipelago

Providenciales > North Caicos > South Caicos

Nassau > Spanish Wells > Harbour Island

Leeward Islands

Antigua > Barbuda

  • Run by Barbuda Express, fares from $55
  • Runs daily (Tue, Thu and Sat as return tours)
  • Duration from Barbuda (hotels >):
    • Antigua (St John’s) 1h30m (hotels >)

St Martin > St Barts

St Thomas > St John

Virgin Gorda > Road Town (Tortola) > Beef Town (Beef Island)

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The twin Trafalgar Falls on Dominica
Trafalgar Falls, Dominica

Some recommendations

Getting to the Caribbean

If you’re keen to to some Caribbean island hopping, when choosing an island to arrive into think about how well connected it is to other islands. Guadeloupe, for example, has low-cost flights from the USA (with jetBlue), Dominica only has one airline flying outside of the Caribbean (American Eagle to Miami). Barbados has a few low-cost airlines flying to it (jetBlue from the USA, WestJet from Canada, Norse Atlantic from the UK), but there are no ferries from the island.

When to go

As I mention in The Art of Independent Travel, I have many reasons for loving a shoulder season, which comes in May, June and December depending on where you are on the Caribbean. June to November is hurricane season for most of the Caribbean and so, although prices will be cheaper, these may be months you wish to avoid.

When to book

I always recommend booking in advance, particularly on international routes, if you have accommodation or flights you’ve paid for. Domestic ferries can usually be booked more last minute.

Where to stay

Generally the ports into which Caribbean ferries arrive in to are not places you would want to hang around in for long. Certainly Castries, Roseau and Pointe-à-Pitre were the least attractive places on my Caribbean island hopping adventure, but they were, at least, handy for connecting with buses.

Most countries

The route taking in the most countries is the one between St Lucia, Dominica and Martinique/Guadeloupe (France), or the one between St Kitts, St Maarten (Netherlands) and St Barts (France) – you could then also return to France’s St Martin (which is on the same island as St Maarten!)

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Travel to Tunisia: should you go?

Is it safe, ethical and enjoyable to travel to Tunisia?

Travel to Tunisia: El Jem
El Jem Roman Amphitheatre, Tunisia

Tunisia’s tourism industry has been through a lot in recent times. Terrorist attacks, hostage-taking, the pandemic, and now an increasingly authoritarian government. What are the implications for those who want to travel to Tunisia?

Quiet beaches, peaceful sites

Travel to Tunisia: Hammamet
Yasmine Hammamet beach

You’ll find few people on Tunisia’s golden windswept sands at the moment. Or, to be more accurate, you’ll find few people beside the long stretches of resort hotels. Closer to Sousse city centre, for example, the beach is full of locals and non-Western visitors.

During the day it feels perfectly safe along these beaches. In some touristy areas of the country there are police guarding roads, checking the occasional vehicle in the name of security. Whether this makes you feel safer or not depends on your trust in the police and the threat actually posed. Being sensible, such as not going to the beach at night and avoiding unsafe areas of the country, should go without saying.

Travel beyond the beaches and you’ll be rewarded with sights such as The Great Mosque of Kairouan (considered the fourth holiest site in Islam), Sousse Medina, Carthage, and El Jem’s Roman Amphitheatre (the second largest outside of Rome). Being in such places with few other tourists is a rare delight, but comes with the worry that those in the hospitality industry may/will be struggling.

Staying in beach resort towns such as Monastir or, as I did, Sousse, provided good value accommodation and easy access to Kairouan and El Jem via train and bus.

Should I go?

Travel to Tunisia: Sousse
Sousse Ribat

I passed dozens of abandoned hotels, many of which must have had hundreds of rooms. This was the most obvious sign of the hit that tourism has taken in Tunisia, but I wasn’t aware of any large-scale desperation. I hope that this was as a result of those previously employed in this industry having since moved on to other jobs. Nevertheless, it is my experience in countries which have suffered dramatic declines in tourism that people are keen to see visitors return. The reasons for this are both financial and psychological; having overseas tourists can reassure people that their country hasn’t been forgotten, as well as provide witnesses to what is happening there.

What is happening in Tunisia isn’t pleasant. The president is a racist authoritarian. Sub-Saharan migrants have, within a matter of months, become the target of violent attacks as a result of the president blaming them for the country’s woes. The numbers of people forced to take the dangerous crossing to Europe has increased exponentially.

In countries where you may vehemently disagree with government policies and actions being able to avoid putting money directly into government coffers can be important. I stayed in privately-owned hotels, travelled by privately-owned bus, ate in private-owned restaurants etc. In Tunisia that was easy enough to do, in countries such as Burma/Myanmar it’s much more of a challenge. If you want to help Tunisian people and those migrants in desperate need there are charities and organisations which help them directly, such as the UNHCR and Medicins Sans Frontiers.

Will I enjoy it?

Kairouan cafe
Berber bread, baklava, beverages with almonds: typical Tunisian fare

Yes. Tunisia has talc-soft beaches for sunseekers. It has labyrinthine medinas for culture vultures. It has scintillating ancient sites for history buffs. Foodies will love the tajines, Berber bread, baklava and plentiful piles of deep red harissa. Plus, due to supply far outstripping demand, it’s a very affordable destination.

Despite the armoured vehicles and soldiers on Tunis’s streets, the people here are as warm and welcoming as those I’ve met in other North African countries. Please do note, however, that this is my experience as a cis, hetero, white man.


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Low-cost flights can be taken from throughout Europe to Tunis, Enfidha (for Hammamet and Sousse), Monastir and Djerba.

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Ferries to Tunisia depart from Marseille (FR), Genoa (IT), Civitavecchia (IT), Palermo (IT) and Salerno (IT).

Lošinj 

Getting close to nature on the Croatian island of Lošinj 

Lošinj, Croatia
View of Mali Lošinj from Umpiljak Hill

Like so many of Croatia’s islands, Lošinj is long, thin and easily accessible. I arrived via a flight to Pula and then a direct ferry, you can also reach this island by flying into Rijeka and taking a bus or ferry, or by island-hopping from Zadar. I’ve lost count of the Croatian islands I’ve visited, but I do now notice how different they can be from one another. Lošinj’s key selling point? Nature.

This 74.36 km2 island is marketed as ‘The island of vitality’. There are hundreds of medicinal plants growing here, over 200 days of sunshine annually, a renowned marine biology institute, a choice of highly-rated spa hotels, and 280km of hiking trails for a variety of abilities. Being a hiker, it was the latter that I most enjoyed.

By foot to faraway beaches

Concrete path on the coast of Lošinj, Croatia
Part of the long trail that runs around the north western coast of Lošinj

It was a pleasant surprise to discover a concrete trail running around almost the entire north western coast of the island. This infrastructure meant that remote beaches were accessible to most (although I’m not sure how easy it would be to use them in, say, a wheelchair), and cyclists could enjoy traffic-free routes to some stunning locations. The trails running through the island’s interior are sometimes steep and lead through verdant forests. Many are old paths threading between stone walls erected centuries ago.

From Mali Lošinj you can walk along easy coastal trails for hours and still come across beaches where showers and changing areas have been constructed. I was most grateful for the occasional short ladders into the sea, which made snorkelling a simple endeavour.

Beyond a naturist beach the trail turns from concrete to dirt, but it’s still very easy to follow and, having continued along it for many hours, I found myself all alone on gorgeous white stone beaches lapped by water so clear that it felt as though I was flying high above the seabed when I went for my frequent dips.

Keeping it clean and clear

Čikat Bay, Lošinj, Croatia
A boutique hotel on picturesque Čikat Bay

I met with the Blue World Institute (BWI) in the small and very cute fishing village of Veli Lošinj to find out about the work they did, and in the hope that I could get an article commissioned about their impressive efforts. The BWI has been gathering data on bottlenose dolphins for 34 years; so rich is this data that it’s used by marine institutes the world over. They work closely with the tourism industry to protect marine wildlife throughout the Adriatic, an important job especially in July and August when the sea is crammed with noisy motorboats.

My visit coincided with the Festival of the Sea, held in the island’s main town Mali Lošinj. Among concerts and seafood stalls I met with the local astronomy group, who explained to me how light pollution has become a big problem on the island. Hopefully the authorities here will listen to the astronomers’ concerns – much as I appreciate all of that infrastructure around the coast there is a point at which maintaining the island’s natural wonders will need to be prioritised.

Floating in Čikat Bay, my mouth so close to the still water that I could hear my breath reflected back at me, I was fully aware of the importance of preserving this island for both humans and wildlife. This picturesque bay is surrounded by luxurious old villas and backed by pine-clad hills, both currently existing in tenuous harmony.

Mali Lošinj

Mali Lošinj, Croatia
Mali Lošinj’s harbour

What I really love about the cute towns on Croatian islands is how Romans, Venetians and Austrian-Hungarians created calm harbours, taming the sea so that sailing vessels could easily glide up to warehouses and colourful villas. Mali Lošinj is just such a town. At night boats bob in the black water as lively restaurants buzz with patrons enjoying fresh pasta and seafood.

In town you’ll find the exceptionally good and creative MobyDick Gelateria, plus the Deveron restaurant – I highly recommend the truffle-laced Pljukanci. Along the quayside is the Museum of Apoxyomenos which contains a Greek bronze statue dating to the 2nd or 1st century BC, found in the waters off of Vele Orjule, an uninhabited islet next to Lošinj.

When to go

From May until October average high temperatures here will be at least 20C (68F), which means you have May, June, September and October to come to this warm place without the vast crowds and high prices of peak summer months.


Add a visit to Lošinj as part of this Slovenia and Croatia itinerary

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There’s a huge range of accommodation on the island, from camping to 5* boutique hotels. I stayed at the Hotel Apoksiomen which is the best choice for a mid-range budget if you want to stay in town.

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I recommend flying to Pula and spending a night to see the ancient streets and immense coliseum there before catching the ferry to Lošinj. Good value flights can also be found to Rijeka.

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From Pula you can get a direct ferry to Mali Lošinj with Krilo Ferries.

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Arriva run a direct ferry between Mali Lošinj and Zagreb, stopping off at Cres (which I highly recommend you do) and Rijeka.

The art of independent travel

A new book, by me, with suggestions on how to travel independently

Front cover of the book The art of independent travel

When I was struggling through a nasty bout of Covid earlier this year I came across some rather uninspiring self-published travel information books, by a blogger claiming to be a ‘bestselling’ author. In my delirium I thought that I could do a better job and banged out 20,000 words in three days.

My more rational post-Covid self then had a lot of editing to do. The main goal was to make the book fun and easily readable, not just paragraph after paragraph of dull words with a few holiday snaps lazily thrown in. Although I poured into the book over 20 years of travel experience, plus the kind of knowledge that comes from having travelled independently through 85 countries, I also knew that I now had to do a lot of research and fact checking.

Part of the shoulder season calendar from The art of independent travel

The book is aimed at those who haven’t done any, or very much independent travel before. I wanted it to be a resource that would ease the traveller into the idea of going it alone, and hopefully help them save a bunch of money along the way. It’s a fairly short book (95 pages on Kindle) because I wanted it to be both succinct and cheap (£0.99/$0.99 – the lowest price I could set!).

Self-publishing is a tortuous exercise of fiddling with margins, designing covers, and formatting trial and error. At last, though, it is done. You can take a peek at the book (and possibly even be tempted to buy it) via the links below.

Amazon Kindle > (FREE until 12 December!)
Amazon paperback >

Making time for Liechtenstein

One of the world’s smallest countries deserves more than just a couple of hours of your time

Malbun, Liechtenstein
Sareis Bergrestaurant, Malbun

How do you define “visiting” a country? A layover in an airport? Going through passport checks? Spending a certain amount of time there? My definition has always been; getting your feet on the ground on the other side of the border. This would stretch the idea of a ‘visit’, but it does allow me to include Lithuania in my list of visited countries.

Liechtenstein is one of those countries where some may think that, because their train passes through it, they have fully experienced it. While the view from the Feldkirch, Austria to Buchs, Switzerland train is filled with marvellously mountainous scenery, there are rarely any stops in Liechtenstein. I recommend that you come to this 160 km2 country for at least a few hours.

Malbun, Liechtenstein
View of Malbun, Liechtenstein

Disembarking the train from Zurich to Sargans with us was a couple doing just that; taking a brief self-guided tour of the capital, Vaduz. Together we found the #24 bus, which took us to the edge of this small city – population 5,696 (many of whom seem to work in the banking sector) – where we walked to the Alte Rheinbrücke (Old Rhinebridge), a covered wooden footbridge that stretches the width of the immense Rhine and which was built in 1871.

Fortunately the bridge is just a 10 minute walk from the bus stop, from where we caught the #21 to Malbun. How powerful these bus engines must be; from the 455m altitude of Vaduz we were transported through Triesenberg (where many Walser people live) and up to Malbun at 1600m. Being so high up, Malbun is Liechtenstein’s only ski resort, but when we visited in early summer we saw that it also makes for an excellent hiking destination.

From Malbun leads a variety of trails, ranging from white-knuckle cling-to-ridges scrambles, to gentle strolls along valley floors. If I ever return here I’d be keen to undertake the two-day hike down to Vaduz. Malbun features a chairlift that operates year-round, from the top you can see the huge peaks of Austria and Switzerland, and enjoy refreshments in the friendly café, on the terrace of which patrons can gaze at panoramic views.

Watch highlights of my visit to Liechtenstein

After a day of walking it was a joy to discover that our hotel (Hotel Turna) had a modern and peaceful spa in the basement. It was even more of a joy to realise that one of the very few (possibly only) restaurants open at this time of year had been decorated to look like a cave. Someone had gone to huge efforts to mould stalagmites, stalactites and little nooks from what must have been tonnes of plaster. The pizza served here was rather good too.

Instead of taking the bus directly back to Vaduz we opted instead to walk down the valley to Steg. Although the trail never strayed far from the road, there were so few vehicles that peacefulness prevailed. Here and there were little waterfalls, mountaintops constantly loomed above. At Steg is a man-made lake and yet more opportunities for long-distance hikes.

Vaduz Castle, Liechtenstein
Vaduz Castle looking over Vaduz

Because our time in Liechtenstein was almost up, we opted to return to Vaduz and have a quick look around this tiny capital. The highlight here is Vaduz Castle which sits high above the city, and which can be reached via a pleasant and well-signposted walk. The castle is home to Liechtenstein’s royal family and so you can’t actually go inside, but the view of and from the castle is well worth the steep climb.

Back in town and the main attractions here are the KunstMuseum (which also has a great café) and the Liechtenstein National Museum. Nothing here can be described as cheap and so, before we completely blew a two week budget in two hours, we walked to the Parkplatz Rheinpark Stadion where the national and local football team plays. Here we caught a Flixbus for the 35-minute journey to Chur, Switzerland.


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We stayed at the Hotel Turna in Malbun, which was well located for the bus, cable car and hiking

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Sargans is a 55-minute train journey from Zurich. From Sargans buses leave from the station and cross into Liechtenstein

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Vaduz is on Flixbus’s line from Munich to Milan and is an easy and affordable way of getting in and out of Liechtenstein

27 hours in Hamburg

How to make the most of a brief stay in Hamburg, including 5 useful tips

Hamburg’s Rathaus town hall

I arrived into Hamburg on a cruise ship and was immediately told that it’s impossible to walk into the city. It is entirely possible, and in fact quite pleasant to walk into Hamburg from the cruise terminal, a route which involves walking through the 111-year-old tile-lined Elbe pedestrian/bicycle tunnel.

Elbe pedestrian/bicycle tunnel

In an attempt to stick to a small budget I stayed in a hotel just east of the main train station. The area in which it was located felt a little unsafe, but busy enough to not cause too much concern.

Tip 1: If you have the budget, I recommend staying in Hamburg City Centre, on the side of the train station where the Rathaus is located.

Reeperbahn

The Reeperbahn is a street in the St Pauli area that has a horrendous four-lane busy road running down the middle of it and which, during the day, feels enormously seedy and depressing. It may be more interesting at night, but it was far enough away from the city centre and was covered in so much trash and sleaze that I had absolutely no desire to return (plus I was exhausted!).

The posh part of town

View down Alsterfleet

Between Mönckebergstraße and Große Bleichen is a lovely collection of streets interrupted by two charming waterways running between the Elbe River and Alster Lake. The architecture here is more interesting and it’s one of the few picturesque parts of the city, albeit inhabited by prohibitively expensive shops.

In the centre of this area is the Rathaus, the city’s grand town hall adorned with statues of men who for the most part have impressive beards. Nearby is the Alster Lake, which is a pleasant place to circle or take a boat trip on.

Tip 2: Frittenwerk Hamburg is one of the cheapest places to eat in this part of town and offers OK dishes such as currywurst.

Perhaps the world’s best attraction

Miniatur Wunderland is a wonderland of miniature scenes from around the world, threaded together by 16km of model railway track. I spent 2 hours here, I could probably have done with another hour before kick-out time

Tip 3: Tickets for entry 2 hours before closing time are discounted by 20%, reflecting the time needed to see the entire attraction

The location of this attraction is in two of the red brick buildings of Speicherstadt, the world’s largest warehouse district which is worth strolling around and is easily walked to from the city centre.

Tip 4: Miniatur Wunderland has a LOT of buttons to push. Press the button by the mini chocolate factory and a little Lindt chocolate will be produced just for you

The warehouses of Speicherstadt

Where to get some views

At the western end of HafenCity, just next to Speicherstadt, you’ll not be able to miss the Elbphilharmonie concert hall. Its glassy, wavy edifice looks out over the Elbe and it’s well worth riding the curved escalator up to the viewing platform which runs around all four sides of the building.

Tip 5: You can get to the Elbphilharmonie viewing platform for free. Get your ticket from ticket office on Am Kaiserkai (you may not be able to gain immediate access during busier times)

A lot of fuss is made about the views of the city from the water. I wasn’t hugely impressed, but the ferries are a pleasant way of getting from A to B. Short journeys are priced at €1.80 and I enjoyed route 62 from Landungsbrücken Brücke 3 to Altona (Fischmarkt). The Fischmarkt building itself is worth seeing, both inside and out, and nearby there’s a U-Boot Museum if you’re into that sort of thing.

Inside the Fischmarkt

Cafés

Hamburg has a wealth of cafés. Some are of the relatively-bland-but-good-value-chain variety, such as LE CROBAG. Others blend delicious hot chocolate (I’m not a coffee drinker and so hot choc quality is very important to me) with captivating views – the coffee shop looking down Bleichenfleet being a good example.

Chilehaus, dating from the 1920s

Perhaps the best café I visited was one that was recommended to me by Carolin from Solo Travel Story. Klein Und Kaiserlich on Am Kaiserkai is an elegant Austrian-style establishment where I tucked into a rich and perfectly-flavoured apfelstrudel for the reasonable price of €5.80. I understand that the coffee here is pretty good too.

Speaking of coffee, if you’re anywhere in the warehouse district then the chances are that, at some point, you’ll be blessed with the scent of roasting beans drifting from Speicherstadt Kaffeerösterei, surely a must-visit destination for you avid coffee drinkers.


Visit Hamburg as part of this free 13-day Germany itinerary (for Budget, Mid-range, and Luxury travellers)

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I stayed in STAY! Boardinghouse, which was a good value and comfortable hotel, albeit in a not particularly interesting area

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Hamburg Airport is an easy 25-minute train journey from Hamburg HBF

Reading to Oxford hike

Description of the 42-mile Thames path from Reading to Oxford

Where the Thames Path disappears into a tunnel of trees

Having previously walked from the source of the Thames to Oxford, and in need of another low-key adventure, I decided to complete the next section of the Thames Path, but in the other direction: from Reading to Oxford

Day 1: Reading to Dorchester-On-Thames

It didn’t help that, upon stepping off the train in Reading, I started walking towards the wrong stretch of water (the Kennet and Avon Canal also goes through Reading). Having lost half an hour I now had to increase my pace so as to reach Goring on time.

The Thames at Reading is wide and, on one side, lined with luxurious houses raised above the frequently-flooded river. Here the path is close enough to road and rail to not be particularly peaceful. It then passes through a rather dull suburb before, thankfully, returning to bucolic countryside. At Pangbourne the walk at last becomes particularly serene and scenic.

In Pangbourne Kenneth Grahame, the author of The Wind in the Willows, once lived. Upstream of the village the path passes through some woods and at one point is high above the river, which flows at the base of steep forested slopes. Having made up time, I reach Goring (which has a train station with direct links to London) for a late lunch at the excellent Pierreponts Café.

I had packed a headtorch and so I wasn’t too concerned about the darkening skies, but I continued to keep the pace up anyway. The Thames here feels far tamer than the wilder countryside in which it begins, and the frantic city towards its end. There were still plenty of high-end waterside homes for me to covet all the way up to Dorchester-On Thames, which I reached shortly after traversing the lovely town of Wallingford, once home to the immense 11th-Century Wallingford Castle (remains of which can still be seen).

Shortly before I got to my final stop for the day I had to cross and walk along a horribly busy main road just the other side of Shillingford, which was probably a lowlight of the walk.

My room for the night: The George in Dorchester-On-Thames

Day 2: Dorchester-On-Thames to Oxford

After a lovely stay at The George in Dorchester-On-Thames and a quick visit to ancient Dorchester Abbey – founded in 1140 – I took some much-needed painkillers and continued on upstream. There were more stretches where road, rail and aircraft were far enough away to leave no sound but the gurgle of water and songs of birds. I saw numerous cormorants, storks, and maybe even a kingfisher.

Shortly before getting to Abingdon, just upstream of Clifton Hampden, the river splits in two at Clifton Cut. It wasn’t always like this. Before 1822 river traffic was charged a premium to navigate this stretch of water, but having overcome strong local opposition a ‘cut’ was dug, shortening the journey and taming the river thanks to the newly-built lock.

There are many points along the upper Thames where ferrymen operated. Poor people couldn’t afford horses and it (as I experienced) could be a very long walk to the nearest bridge. You’ll often see place names or pubs that reflect the heritage of ferrymen along the river.

Abingdon-On-Thames is another place where its long history is evident in various buildings dating back to 1180, although many of the old-looking edifices only date back to Victorian times when Trendell erected various follies. The 1680 County Hall building is particularly splendid, and this is a good town in which to stop for lunch.

This walk was undertaken at the end of October and I was very lucky with the weather. The path was only muddy in one place – just outside of Abingdon – and the trees were putting on their colourful Autumn show.

The closer I got to Oxford the more rowers I saw. Boats with one, two, four or eight people zoomed past, often accompanied by their coach yelling from a megaphone. And yet this only added to the serenity of the river, at least until I approached Sandford Lock.

At last I staggered into Oxford. I recognised the boathouses where my wife once coxed during her university days and thought that I was nearly at journey’s end. But no, still another 45 minutes walking through the city’s pretty environs, the Thames my constant companion. At last I saw Osney Bridge, just the other side of which is the train station and my ride back to London.


Trip details

Total length: roughly 42 miles
Total walking time: 12 hours
Trains to Reading: direct from London Paddington and take on average 44 minutes
Trains from Oxford: direct to either London Paddington or London Marylebone and take on average 1h 13m
Where I stayed: The George, Dorchester-On-Thames (book here)

Swimming near piranhas

Floating lodge, Amazonas, Brazil

A lot of the enjoyment of travel comes down to trust. We trust transport to get us to places, we trust accommodation to provide what’s described on their website, we trust bloggers and writers to accurately depict a destination. On my journey into the Brazilian Amazon I had to trust my guide when he said that a particular section of river wasn’t infested with piranha.

A sublime swimming pool

I’ve always been fascinated by piranha, but not to the extent that I want to be in the water with them. Having been on a fishing expedition to find these toothy fish my caution felt justified. Using small pieces of meat the fish were attracted to our boat and I could feel – rather than see – their powerful jaws sawing away at the meal at the end of my line. It was when, at the end of the day, my guide assured us that it was safe to swim in the water that my trust of him really kicked in

Guide holding up a piranha

It was explained to us that piranha only swim in certain types of water, the murky green water where we’d found them rather than the tannin-rich dark water around our floating lodge. Thus reassured, I dived in.

I really enjoy swimming and this tributary of the Amazon River was the perfect pool. Flat, warm and with no-one else around I swam until sunset every evening, sharing the brackish water with tiny un-bitey fish and pink river dolphin.

Sunset over a lake, Amazonas, Brazil

Caution

Experiences such as these demonstrate the value of having a guide or speaking with knowledgeable locals. Having swum in various other Amazon tributaries it helps to know what to look out for, and how each section of river can have different risks and rewards.

Cooked piranha on a plate

I recently read someone describe piranha as “delicious” and with a delicate flavour. It really is not, at least not the one that I tried and which we caught earlier that day. It has a strong flavour and we had it served to us intact, massive teeth and all – not particularly appetising, but a good reminder of why I wouldn’t want to be swimming anywhere near these fish.

8 Top Hoi An Hostels and Budget Hotels

My top picks for Hoi An, based on location, dorm and private rooms, bathrooms and shared facilities

Hoi An Hostels and Budget Hotels
Hoi An, Vietnam

This is a must-see city when visiting Vietnam…plus it has a gorgeous sandy beach. Here are my top Hoi An hostels and budget hotels picks:

Hoi An Love.ly Hostel

Hoi An Hostels: Hoi An Love.ly
Hoi An Love.ly Hostel

📍 9 minutes’ walk away from Cau Temple
🛏️ Spacious and clean dorms (no bunks) with air con
🚿 Bathrooms attached to each room
🍽️ Good value on-site restaurant with free breakfast, free beer Mon/Wed/Fri
🧑‍🤝‍🧑 No private rooms


The Imperfect Downtown Hoi An

Hoi An hostels: The Imperfect Downtown Hoi An
The Imperfect Downtown Hoi An

📍 Perfectly located on An Hội island
🛏️ Spacious 3, 4, and 5-bed dorms with air con
🚿 Good bathrooms but floor can get very wet
🍽️ Breakfast included. Bar and small swimming pool
🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Entire dorm rooms can be reserved ahead


The Seaside Bungalow

Hoi An hostels: The Seaside Bungalow
The Seaside Bungalow Hoi An

📍 Just a couple of minutes walk to Ha My Beach
🛏️ Bright and roomy 4- or 8-bed dorms
🚿 Good bathrooms, nicely designed
🍽️ Bar and restaurant, free breakfast, free drink on Wednesday
🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Beautiful private rooms


Hoi An Life Homestay

Hoi An hostels: Hoi An Life Homestay
Hoi An Life Homestay

📍 Located in a quiet suburb 26 minutes’ walk from Cau Temple
🛏️ No dorm rooms, max 4 per private room
🚿 All rooms have en-suite bathrooms with free toiletries and towels
🍽️ Free breakfast and bicycle rental. Best thing here: the gorgeous pool
🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Private 2, 3, or 4-bed rooms


Blue Clouds Homestay

Blue Clouds Homestay Hoi An
Blue Clouds Homestay

📍 10 minutes’ walk to Vau Temple
🛏️ Private rooms sleeping up to 3 people
🚿 Simple bathrooms
🍽️ Breakfast available at extra cost, small outdoor terrace
🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Well-appointed ensuite rooms with either 1 or 2 beds


Melody Boutique Villa

Hoi An budget hotel: Melody Boutique Villa
Melody Boutique Villa

📍 Located between downtown and Ha My Beach
🛏️ 4-bed dorms with no bunks
🚿 Clean and modern bathrooms
🍽️ Rooftop terrace, no restaurant or kitchen
🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Variety of private ensuite rooms sleeping up to 4 people


Cheerful Hoi An Hostel

Cheerful Hoi An Hostel
Cheerful Hoi An Hostel

📍 19-minute walk to Cau Temple
🛏️ Spacious 4- and 8-bed dorms with simple bunks
🚿 Most rooms have simple ensuite bathroom
🍽️ Free breakfast, nice outdoor dining area
🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Ensuite private rooms for up to 3 people


Coral Riverside

Hoi An hostels: Coral Riverside
Coral Riverside

📍 Great location on the River Hồ and just 5 minutes’ walk to the beach
🛏️ 4-bed dorms with privacy curtains, air con, fans and reading lights
🚿 Luxurious ensuite bathrooms
🍽️ Kitchen and free breakfasts
🧑‍🤝‍🧑Excellent private rooms with ensuite bathrooms and private balconies


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Caledonian Sleeper vs Night Riviera

Comparing the UK’s 2 sleeper train services in 14 different categories

Caledonian Sleeper vs Night Riviera
The Night Riviera sleeper train in London’s Paddington Station

The UK has two sleeper train services: the Caledonian Sleeper from London Euston to Scotland, and the Night Riviera from London Paddington to Cornwall. How do they compare for their basic cabins (aka Classic Room on Caledonian Sleeper)?

Caledonian Sleeper (CS)Night Riviera (NR)Winner
Single price for 2 adults with railcard£275£232.40NR
Website user experienceConfusing info about Room Supplements, buttons hard to see, lots of steps to get to orderNot immediately obvious what the options are for the service selectedNR
Accepts railcards?NoYesNR
Journey time7h 33m8h 9m
BikesFreeFree
Dogs£30£30
Choice Caledonian Double, Club Room, Classic Room, seatCabin, seatCS
Breakfast includedHot drink and oat barHot drink, choice of bacon roll, fruit, croissant, cereal or porridgeNR
Lounge accessYes, in Dundee, Leuchars and Perth (other lounges available for more expensive cabin types)Free access to First Class lounge (with hot and cold drinks, snacks, fruit, pastries and shower access) in Paddington, Penzance, TruroNR
Lower bunk size190x63cm193x62cmNR
WashbasinYes, but no coverYes, with coverNR
Amenity packSoap, towel, eye mask, ear plugsSoap, towelCS
Cabin techReading lights, cabin lights, temperature control, UK plug sockets, USB ports, host call buttonReading lights, cabin lights, temperature control, UK plug sockets, USB ports, room service button
WiFiFreeFree
StorageUnder lower bunkUnder lower bunk, tiny cupboardNR
On-board diningDining car with full menuSnacks and light bitesCS
Lounge/barDining car is also bar, priority access for Club Room and Caledonian DoubleFully stocked bar, free snacks and non-alcoholic hot and cold drinks NR
ComfortExcellent mattress, but bumps and shunts during night (stops at 00:10, 05:07, 06:15)Smooth journey (stops at 00:49, 02:37, 04:11, 04:32, 05:11, 06:12, 06:26, 06:33, 06:41, 06:49, 07:07) bunk ladder folds easily away for more spacious seatingNR
Dis/embarkationRooms available up to 1hr 20m before departure (they wouldn’t actually let me on until 5 mins before) and 30m after arrival. No lounge for basic cabinsLounge available 2h 45m before departure, from Penzance to Paddington the train arrives at 05:04 but guests can stay on until 06:45 (and then use the lounge)NR

TOTALS
Caledonian Sleeper: 3
Night Riviera: 11

Watch a video of a Night Riviera sleeper train journey between Truro and London Paddington: