This will be my fourth sleeper train in Europe and a service run by the largest operator in the business: Austria’s ÖBB Nightjet. The Vienna to Brussels Sleeper Train is scheduled to be a journey of 13 hours and 44 minutes, departing at 20:11 and arriving into Brussels Midi at 09:55. I’m going to give you an honest review of my experience, starting with the booking process.
Booking on ÖBB Nightjet
I recommend that you put your destination country followed by “nightjet” into your chosen search engine. For example, I searched for “Belgium nightjet” and the exact page I needed to search and book was at the top of the results.
Towards the top of the page is a field to select whichever countries link to your destination. For Vienna I chose Austria
Beneath this field you then choose your departure date and below will appear the dates on which the service(s) run and the various price options.
So far, so simple. Here’s where it got complicated. I wanted to travel with my wife in a “Couchette carriage” that comes with shower (non-shower versions also available). However, because of the puritanical attitude of ÖBB, genders cannot mix in their carriages and so we were forced to look at the sleeper cabin option. The price for that was over €500, quite incredible for a train journey and basic accommodation.
Eventually we decided that I would travel alone while my wife took a considerably cheaper and faster flight. After selecting my couchette carriage I was then given the option to pay extra for the shower (this option isn’t always available), which I did. The price came to £93.50 (€107.40), which is remarkably good value considering it included travel and accommodation.
How did I get such a good price?
- Booking as far in advance as possible (bookings are open many months ahead of departure)
- Travelling mid-week
- Sharing a cabin with a stranger
Lounge
I had been given the impression that, because I had booked a sleeper train carriage, I would have access to the ÖBB lounge at Vienna Central station. However, when I arrived at reception the man behind the desk didn’t seem certain that I could have access but, because he was busy with other passengers, waved me in with a wink.
The seating in the lounge isn’t particularly comfortable nor are the little tables conducive to working on a laptop. But there is a coffee machine that makes a decent hot chocolate, a good range of soft drinks, plus a small range of snacks including one hot pastry option. Not the best train lounge food I’ve seen, but OK.
The cabin
In my cabin is one other person who happened to be another Englishman. Of all the sleeper train cabins I’ve travelled in this is the largest. We had plenty of space to sit and work and eat.
There are main cabin lights, reading lights, low-level red lights and buttons galore. In fact, it took me a while to figure out which button turned off the main cabin light (it’s the one that’s inexplicably located above the door).
Space in the bathroom was tight but manageable. I would have preferred a screen rather tan a shower curtain, but I understand that the new Nightjet carriages do have shower screens in the bathrooms. Soap is provided as are towels. Sadly the latter proved redundant.
Waking early to shower before breakfast I discovered that nothing but a dribble of water was coming out of the showerhead. I pressed the button on and off a few times in the forlorn hope that this would make a difference. Nothing. No shower for me, despite the extra price I’d paid for this comfort.
Unfortunately mine wasn’t the only cabin experiencing issues. A family in a nearby cabin didn’t have a working toilet, others’ showers weren’t working either. For Europe’s main sleeper train service this was all incredibly disappointing.
Sleep
I’m 5ft8in (177cm) – not particularly tall but I did note that I had loads of room at my feet. The bed felt plenty wide enough and wasn’t too firm (I was on the bottom bunk, which during the day becomes the cabin seating).
I don’t know if the ÖBB drivers receive special training, but they seem adept at starting the train so gently that you don’t even realised it’s begun to move. The rails through Austria, Germany and Belgium were smooth and straight enough that I barely felt a bump in the night.
Although there was a family with screaming children two doors down from my cabin the sound insulation was such that a peaceful night was had, by me at least. I’m a light sleeper, but I slept very well on this service.
Breakfast
“Breakfast will be served at 8am,” we were told. From the menu (see right) you choose six items using the pen included in the little pack you’re given. You can also view the menu here. The carriage manager then collects your order the night before and brings breakfast the next day.
I could have done with extra sleep but was awake at 07:30 to shower before breakfast. Not only didn’t the shower work, but breakfast arrive at 08:50, meaning I had unnecessarily woken 1 hour and 20 minutes early. Usually I’m a morning person, today not so much.
When breakfast did come it was good. Fresh rolls, quality products. The hot chocolate was one of those horrible instant mix things though. There was enough food to set me up for the day.
If you did want an evening meal then, to give an example of prices, a spaghetti bolognese and drink (including beer or wine) costs €10.90. Just don’t expect a gourmet meal.
Timing
Departing at 20:11 feels very civilised. There’s enough time, should you wish, to have dinner on board before settling in for the night. ÖBB Nightjets don’t have a dining car but the food available is good value and brought to your cabin.
Without explanation or apology the train arrived into Brussels Midi about 30 minutes late. Not a problem for me but an indication of the service’s reliability. Apparently tardiness is an issue for ÖBB which some attribute to German infrastructure – maybe routes which avoid this country are better.
Conclusion
I have received a 50% refund (€53.70) for the issues I experienced, not least the lack of shower. This seems reasonable, however, I am concerned that ÖBB’s Nightjets often have these problems. There are no showers at Brussels Midi, it’s not fun to go through the day without having had one.
I was particularly impressed with the smoothness of the ride; the key thing about a sleeper train service is, after all, sleep! If I can get a similar price in future I would consider travelling ÖBB Nightjet again. Plus, I saved 239.2kg in CO2 emissions compared to if I’d travelled by car.
A Plan To Go 