My birthday is at the end of October, not a time of year that’s ideal hiking weather but, for the past couple of years, I’ve nonetheless decided to tackle a different section of the Thames Path (source of Thames to Oxford, Reading to Oxford). In 2023 it was time for the 32-mile Reading to Windsor hike.
Day 1: Reading to Marlow
Blessed with the brand new Crossrail train route from central London to Reading it was an easy start to the day, helped by my learning from last year and actually heading in the right direction to the Thames, just minutes away. This would prove to be one of the least serene parts of the walk, thanks to the nearby presence of the railway and various main roads. Nevertheless, the city of Reading will no doubt feel blessed to have such greenery and a full flowing river on its edge.
On the other side of the river is the vast boating lake where the various London 2012 Olympics rowing events took place. Back on this side and the scenery gets more and more wilder, the sounds of roads and rails receding at last. The Thames Valley Nature Park provided the rustle of birds and unseen critters, the Sonning Bridge providing the first perfectly picturesque scene of the day.
Beyond the bridge the path became incredibly muddy, despite it not having rained for days. The Thames Path is pretty, but poorly maintained in many places. As the width of the river grew so did the size and number of its islands (which, being on a river, are called ‘eyots’). Luxury houses began to appear on the river banks, often blocking the path and necessitating a diversion away from the water.
I’ve previously walked the upcoming section of the Thames Path with my wife and so names such as ‘Wargrave’ and ‘Shiplake’ were familiar to me, as, eventually, was the scenery. It’s a very pretty and peaceful stretch of the Thames oozing with wealth. Where a river ferry was once located the path once again veers a long way around mansions and dips beneath the railway line from Twyford (which connects with London Paddington), I had to crouch down in order to follow the path beneath the rails.
Henley-on-Thames is an excellent place to reward yourself with lunch and/or cake. The Chocolate Cafe has a range of dishes and delicious baked goods and is therefore often busy. Out on the river swans glide by tour boats and private boats, sleek rowing boats flying past just beyond the bridge.
Back on the other side of the river the path continues past the gorgeous Temple Island with its delightful columned folly. Just past this is Hambledon Lock, across the water are the Chiltern Hills. Spectral white deer appear when the path diverges from the river near opulent Culham Court. Close to Marlow a key bridge had, without warning, been closed for repairs. This necessitated a long diversion along a busy country lane. I was, therefore, very happy to arrive at my £74/night Premier Inn in Marlow
Day 2: Marlow to Windsor
Starting my birthday with breakfast at Megan’s I followed my boot-blistered feet out of the ancient town and back to the path. Another fine, sunny day for hiking. Just about everyone I passed at this time in the morning was dog walker. It took a while after passing underneath the A404 for the busy road noise to disappear but, at last, peace returned when I reached Bourne End.
Bourne End followed the pretty Thames village formula: old pub with seating on the riverbank; massive houses, and; private boats tied up either on the bank or in tiny marinas. Sharing a bridge with the railway I cross the river for umpteenth time.
At Cookham the path leaves the river, loses itself in Berkshire countryside and decides to re-join the Thames on the opposite bank to historic Cliveden House. I really enjoyed this next part: a long section of well-laid path with trees to the side and, on the other side, the cliffs and wooded grounds of Cliveden.
Much as I enjoy my own company I could think of no better way of spending my birthday than having my wife (Anna) and dog (Bounty) by my side. The Thames path has Maidenhead sprung upon it and in a riverside park I met Anna and Bounty.
Our happy trio marched out of Maidenhead. Past Bray Lock (#34 out of 45 on the river) and beneath the noisome M4. Until now I felt as though I was in the countryside, the M4 motorway marked the point at which the fringes of London began to make themselves known. More roads, more homes, less serenity.
Still, there were trees and fields and riverine idyll to enjoy. I was now very tired and just about ready to head home. Just then the immense Windsor Castle appeared some distance away and above the trees. Nearly there. It had been many since I had visited this royal town and had forgotten how impressive the royal castle is. So much for just one family. We found somewhere to grab food amidst the tourist throngs then collapsed on a train back to London.
Trip details
Total length: roughly 32 miles
Total walking time: 10 hours
Trains to Reading: direct from London Paddington and take on average 44 minutes
Trains from Windsor: to London Paddington from Windsor & Eton Central station, taking 30 minutes and changing at Slough
Where I stayed: Premier Inn, Marlow (book here)
A Plan To Go 